So guys, my stuff arrived from the US after a protracted battle with FedEx. Never using them again if I can help it.
My mods are:
Streetbob (2009 FXDB):
V&H staggered Big shots
K&N A/C to fit OEM filter cover
On the Sporty (2009 XL1200C):
V&H staggered short shots
The sporty is easy there really is only one calibration that fits the combination. I've searched through the forum and I remember something about doing one to disable the exhaust valve on the Dyna then another one which you tune from but I cant find that thread anymore. Anyone wanna run down the order in which I should do this?
Thanks
BT
Thanks for the info DodgyDave, so looking at the varous calibrations out there, why do I go with the AE176-002 and not others like the AF176-002 like the OP did in the thread you linked?
I would have, for example, if left to my own devices and based on my configuration, have picked QD176-002 or even PZ176-002 and vtuned from there...why would that have been a problem?
According to the tuning guide, priority should be given in the following order...............
1. year and model for correct calibration (ie.176)
2. camshaft........or as close as possible, if not stock
3. heads, if not stock
4. exhaust
So based on that, You could select AE176, PZ176 or QD176.
If it was me, I woud try all 3 of them before any vtuning. Then start tuning with the one that it runs the best on.
Since your have to disable active exhaust/intake, you might as well try QD176 first. Ride it around for a while on this one then try the others over a similar or even the same run.
Vtune the one that your bike seems to like the best from the start!
Burto.
Thanks for the patience so far guys.
This is what I'm gonna do. I'm gonna load the QD176 first to just disable all the flappers and valves etc, then load AE176-002 as my first starting program and tune from there.
Question: what do I set the AFR bias tables to? The example in the manual sets it to 664....the value itself doesnt mean much to me at this point in time...so what should I set it to and why?
Arghh...according to this thread, the AF176 calibration might be the go....*confused*
http://www.hdparts.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=71&forumid=27&tpage=3&view=Topic&postid=263238
Situation so far:
I loaded the QD176 map, I haven't started V-tuning yet (time...so precious) and on Sunday did a 150 km ride with the calibration as is.
The bike is definately running richer than it used to, but it is running a LOT cooler too. It seems to be running pretty well - perhaps not as much power as I would have thought it would develop, but I'll be damned if I can get it to pop - on the whole trip I had maybe one or two pops, and I had to really gun the engine a couple of times WOT on pulling away then closing the throttle and eventually it would pop a little...and not all the time too. No problems cold starting or hot starting it. I think though that it could benefit from running slightly leaner...that's my feeling.
So I'm wondering if I should just stick with this one and Vtune from it seeing as my bike seems to like it, or try the AE176?
Hi gmeikle
Yeah man I put a K&N kit on which includes a backing plate etc - the only thing stock on the airbox is the cover which just fits over the assembly to make it look stock. Big was the surprise when I took the original airbox off and here's a fugging wire running to it, flipped it over and there was the offending flapper sitting in the intake hole. Damn pollies with their environmentally correct legislation! So I just taped up the wire with insulation tape and clipped it onto the back of the new backing plate, they provide a loop that you can install to clip the wires onto. I just disabled the active intake and exhaust when I loaded QD176 so I dont get any CEL's.
Thanks for the info man I will give the AE176 a try and see how we go.
So I've read a lot about starting calibrations being set to bias around 700 etc...I am slightly confused at the moment (again lol).
Do I need to change the bias when I load one of the calibrations as a canned map? Or only when I start to do Vtune runs?
(Havent started Vtuning yet - between work/rain, riding time has been limited for me, but I'd like to at least have a canned map to run until then should I need to go on a ride before I've had a chance to Vtune)...
Hi guys,
apologies if I sound dumb as fuck, but I need someone to confirm this for me: in TTS terms, the definition of a canned map would be?
Answer: the relevant calibration file closest matching your particular setup WITHOUT any values on that calibration changed whatsoever before you loaded it on the bike, yes?
Just want to make sure that I am indeed running a "canned map" and dont need to make any changes first.
Life's been busy with rain and work etc and I havent yet had time to do Vtunes, I dont want to run anything on the bike that will cause it pain and suffering until I get a chance to Vtune properly.
Cheers
Hi gmeikle,
I'm another Perth based rider on this forum.
I've got a 2011 Street Bob with minimal kms so far....only a week or so old.
Yesterday I mounted a V&H Pro Pipe HO and Big Sucker stage II (yes, Xmas day....them's my priorities!). I've tried a couple of calibrations, but it seems to hang up when shutting the throttle...an interesting burble from the pipe on overun!
I'm now trying the QD176, modifying the bias to 681, as you suggested, and programmed it back into the ecu. I haven't ridden the bike yet...kids day today ;-), but will get out there this afternoon. The bike has too few kms to really try and effectively Vtune it yet, so I'm basically looking for a 'running in' calibration.
I have a reasonable amount of experience with Power Commanders and Thunder Max (not to mention carbys and Tuneboy on lot's of Triumphs) on my own and customer's bikes (bike mechanic by trade) but this is my first use of TTS.
Do you recommend the QD176 for my setup, or maybe another?
thanks
cheers
My understanding is that it's ready for all but the Softails .... apparently the 2011 Softails have a different ECU setup to all the others?
Yep, it's the 2-1. The QD176 seemed closest...the only 2-1 cals involved cam changes as well.
Belts n braces with the flappers. I already had 'eliminators' for the plugs, so I fitted them (more as a way of keeping the terminals clean and free of road grime) and also disabled the flappers in the calibration.
I'll ride the bike to work tomorrow (yep, on a public holiday) and see how it goes.
Thanks for the info.
btw, I'm in Basso.
I finally got an opportunity to do a VTuning run today. Nice results ( I think..) I haven't worked out how to save the graphs as jpegs so I can't post them here.
When I generated the new file, the majority of cells showed between 2% and 5% change. There was a row of yellow cells at the top and bottom of the graphs .... hopefully I can get there next time.
I think I want a tacho before I do another run. I did discover the rev-lmiter once .... tracing the graph in mastertune I found one momentary peak of 6176rpm.
Will update as soon as I can. Work is keeping me away a lot.
BTW, I fitted the 'quiet baffle' to the ProPipe. It takes the boom out at idle, but really does little to quiet the pipe on the boil ;-)
