Fellas,
which map would I load for a 2011 street bob, stage 1 SE air cleaner and rush slip ons with 2" baffles.
I looked at the calibration files from the website and I'm fucken confused as.
Thanks
Thanks a lot fellas, this is a big help.
cm, with the clb at 720, what does that number mean and how did you know to set it at 720. Cheers
Gmeikle, thanks heaps mate. Got it.
gmeikle,
Found your post very interesting.
Got any advise on an 08 Fatboy Stock engine with S&S Slip on taper turbos and High flow air cleaner using a SEPST.
Thinking of changing to a TTS but don't think its worth the $$$ just having Slip ons and High flow. What do you think?
Cheers
Gmeikle, things have changed a little.
Walka has looked after me with a set of Bassani Firesweep and my TTS finally arrives on Monday.
Will i still use the same map you mentioned before or will i need a new map now that this is a full exhaust set up and not slip ons.
Thanks for your help.
just about to load map and then it asks to enable/disable ACR?? (do i enable or disable?)
Then something about speedometer (do i press skiop here?)
Thanks a lot Dave
I didn't do that gmeikle.
So what now? Go and load map QD176 and then reload the af176 map. Or do i have to reload the stock map and start again.
Is there anything else I need to do when loading the qd176 or does it take care of everything.
Thanks again mate. Appreciate it.
Fellas, just want to make sure i get this right.
Do I change every single clb cell in the attachment below to 720. Cheers
Thanks again fellas
Ok fellas,
I ran the af176 with clb at 720. Bike runs good, but I'm getting some pretty big exhaust popping when I'm off the throttle.
Besides giving map AE176 a go, is there anything else I can do with the current map to get rid of the popping. I've checked for a leak at the head, everything seems ok. (whats the best way to check for leaks by the way?)
Also with the AE176 do i change clb to 720 as well or leave as is?
Thanks Burto, will go through the guide now.
ok, tried the AE176 today and got caught in some traffic, bike started idling strange and then just stalled. AF176 felt a lot better for me anyway. The popping is driving me fucken nuts and I haven't really got the confidence to muck around to much with the TTS.
The manual says;
"to richen or enlean the mixture during the entire decel event, the recommended way is to change the AFR table in the first column (20kpa between 1750 and 3000 RPM by 5 to 10 percent). Some experimentation here will find the sweet spot that elimantes popping"
so if i want to richen it up a bit would I change the table from this
to this
will this richen it up a bit and get rid of the popping. Am I on the right track or should I look at doing something else.
Thanks for your help fellas
Yes Train, thats it mate. Try that and if no change try another 5%. If no change then try decreasing by 5 or 10%, just incase it might be popping from too rich a mixture.
Cheers Burto, will give that a go, hopefully gets rid of popping.
Thanks again
............."bike started idling strange and then just stalled"..............
Was probably your EITMS - Engine Idle Temp Management System.
If bike gets too hot at idle, it will kick in and shut down rear cylinder. Or possibly miss fire both, I think the TTS changes it to each cylinder only firing every 2nd cycle.
Was the motor very hot when it happened?
Spot on Burto, was very hot and thats exactly what it felt like, cylinder firing on every second cycle
Does that mean the TTS is looking after the bike and I dont have to worry about it. Or is there something i need to do
It's all good Train........The EITMS is trying to cool your motor. The 1st thing it does is richen the fuel mixture to try and cool it, then if it is still getting hotter it will do the miss firing thing.
Mine did it once when I first started vtuning and left the bike idling for a long time while fuckin around with the laptop! Freaked me out! thought I had fucked something till I read about it in the manual.
Burto.