G'day fellas, attempting a 12" apehanger install on my Deluxe.... and I know I'm gonna need some help from you great folk along the way. I have all the parts needed and have the Hills Country Cycles pre-wired bars complete with pre-wired switches. Hopefully by the time I getb this thread going I will have figured out how to upload a picture in this message.
For those who have done this - all advice welcome. Cheers, berms
yep, plenty of cold ones " align="absMiddle" src="/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif" />
you say they are pre-wired? do they have the correct plugs pre-fitted too?
if so, thats the only fiddly bit done for you so you should have no probs at all.
more time for more cold ones...
I wish my bars would friggin hurry up and arrive... grrr.....
The best part is the first ride out the driveway!
Fitted apes to my bike as well. Took two days of patience. I also cut, soldered and used shrink tube to extend wires.
http://www.hdforums.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=71&forumid=5&postid=212822&view=topic
Having been there and done this, just bear in mind that you do NOT have to use the bike's existing connector blocks if you have to chase your tail trying to find matching pins. Think laterally and think cheap - even stores like SuperCheapAuto sell good connector blocks with mases of pins/terminals that will do the job. That's what I used last time when I had issues trying to find stuff for the Shovel. I have for a few years done this shit the WRONG way, but now find that if you do have bare wires to attach male/female pins to before enterting into a plastic connector block, use solder, a good quality crimp tool, and heat shrink for peace of mind. And I found that chucking out the insulation and using crimp, then solder, then heat shrink gave me best results. Maybe I am hamfisted, but so often the insulation would just end up loose or even crack. And I could not see how good the soldering was under a piece of plastic. AND....always put the loose bit of heat shrink UP the wire ***before*** you attach any connector terminal or pin, so once the soldering is done you can drop it down on to the crimped area and apply a lighter to the heat shrink. Ask me how I know this! All connector pins male and female have a ''tang'' to snap into place once snug int he connector block. To remove them from the block or insert them cleanly, all you need is a very, very small-tipped blade screwdriver or punch to press the tang against the body of the pin.
Sorry if this is suck-eggs stuff to you.
Thanks kiwidave.... I haven't got to the wiring stage yet, but are you saying not to try and wire into the bikes existing connector blocks???
At the moment my bars are internally "pre-wire" and the end of the wires running out of the base of the bars are bare with no pins attached or supplied.
I thought it was just a simple matter of removing the wires oem wires from the bikes existing connector blocks and inserting the new wires.... I could be very wrong on this one by the sound of it......
Thanks Frank.... your Rocker looks great with those BR apes.
I was hoping to avoid the cutting, soldering and shrink tubing of wires by ordering the bars "pre-wired",......... but now I'm just confused and I hjaven't even started yet.
If you are going to cut and re-solder, do it where ever is easiest for you. The length of the wires will also determin where that is.
you haven't really saved much at all by getting pre-wired bars as you are going to have to cut an shut anyway so you may as well of cut and shut your own original wires.
All you have saved is the actual running the wires through the bars yourself and on curvy apes this isn't any problem whatsoever anyway.
On t-bars or other bars with tight angles it can be a right royal pain.
All fun and games.....
