Hi looks like i need to remove my cam plate , Is there a home made method for the special cam gear block that anyone suggests as good or am i better off bying one?. I understand i need to remove the push rods, ,is this because the lifters will drop down  into the case. or does it actually prevent the cams coming out?. Do i get HD replacable ?Can someone suggest a link where i can see how they fit  back together and adjust,Fairly comfortable with the job just dont understand the pushrod thing, seeing pics of bolt cutters lol, and i dont understand how the adjustable ones go back in and end up covered over.

So many questions sorry:0

What a brilliant idea, 10 bucks worth of plastic steel V 45 dollars HD tool, thanks heaps for that, priced adjustable HD rods at around 270 dollars ,havent looked elswhere yet, maybe i will take the rods out thru the top and save the money. figured if i was going in i would replace bearings in crank case and do the cams, hopefully theres a kit that provides cams bearings and  tension shoes .The HD upgrade is around 800 dollars to go hydrolic tensioners but includes oil pump upgrade.Not real interested in a wild cam or performance, smooth and reliable with good lower range suits my riding style, carby bike with pipes and air done. Only 15k so maybe the bearings etc is overkill but i dont really want to have to pull it apart for a few more years

Rob, bearings and tensioners are NOT overkill ! No need to go hydraulic with mild Cams.
If your not touching the top end, go for Adjustable's. Much quicker and easier.
A good guide here:
 

www.harleyhog.co.uk/tensionerinstall.htm

Thanks guys, much appreciated, Great link Speedy , i stumbled over it last night actually and saved it for when i do the job, real world instructions with pics are ideal for someone like me lol ,been reading up on the adjustable pushrod thing to, just one thing i dont get maybe someone can tell me. The note below is in the HD instructions to fit adjustables,How can  things bleed down if i havent run the bike?Do i turn it over without plugs or rotate rear wheel or something? Cheers

NOTE

Wait 10 minutes before turning engine over after adjusting front

or rear cylinder pushrods. This will allow tappets to bleed down

and prevents the pushrods or valves from bending. Pushrods

should turn freely and valves must be on their seats (closed)

before turning over engine.

Rob, after adjusting the first set of pushrods, the lifters will hold the valves open slightly due to chamber inside the lifter being filled with oil, making it
act like it's solid (think hydraulic jack).
Their is a small bleed hole in the lifter, that will slowly leak off this oil as it's now under pressure from the valve spring, until the valve is seated and thus no more pessure.
If you didn't wait for it to bleed down, when you rotate the engine, you could potentially open up the valve too far when on the Cam lobe, and thus maybe hitting the piston.
Make sense ?

it does, that assumes the lifters are full of oil which they will be cause i arnet taking them out , thanks heaps for the info, used the mirror trick to check out the inner tension shoe and it looks fine, calling into the dealer tomorrow to get the head mechanic to have a listen, maybe its normal sound and i am paranoid. lol but with all this added info and advise i am actually itching to pull the thing down,  my mottos always been " If it aint broke pull it apart to find out why" maybe i should change mottos  lol

cheers

Go on, get in there and change those Cams !

Your noise could still quite possibly be Cam bearings.
Being an '01 it should have the rear Cam roller bearing update, but the bearings can still spin in the Cam plate.
And you still have the shit INA inner bearings that can fail.
There really shouldnt be any "screeching" noises at all.