Can anyone provide a bit of advice on the best way to go about internal wiring a set of T bars ? maybe even a link to an install guide ?

Just got the bars off flea bay cost $187 AU including freight from the US, the bars are 29" satin black T's 6" raise with 7" overall pullback, they have been drilled for internal wiring and have the flat spot for the brake master cylinder, I will be fitting them myself on my Nightrain.

I know all the cables and wires are plenty long enough so no extensions required but am a bit confused about the best way to go about the wiring, I have read different stuff about cutting and re-soldering (not real sure about cutting) the preferred option I think is removing the tank to get at the harness plug .... my other option is to just get stuck in and see what I find as I go.

Some suggestions and experiences would be appreciated.

Cheers

 

 There is a couple or ways...

 

Do you have an air compressor?  If you do use it blow some nice strong twine or string through the bars.  You will need one to each side of the bike.  

Best way is to tape up the holes that you don't want the string to go through so that all the air is headed to once side of the bar.  Then do the other side.  Do this while they are off the bike - much easier. Then mount them and use the string to pull your cables through.

ALSO - If you find the cables are a little bit tight.  Spray some WD40 on a bit of rag and wipe the cables down with it.  It will make the slicker and easier to slide through.

 

If you don't have an air compressor you could try some thin flexible but stiff wire and push it though first.

Good luck.

Cheers
Mongrel
 

 

Try this...

http://www.hdforums.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=71&forumid=4&tpage=1&view=topic&postid=11910#11910

T Bars can be the worst if the hole from the handlebar to the riser ist a decent size an hasn't been cleaned up. I got a cheap set (yeah yeah i know) once and try as i could couldn't get the wires through. whereas Ive had no trouble with apes.

I have got some string through both sides to pull the wires through without drama, will I need to take the plugs off the harness or do they usually go through the holes ??

Thanks Sparra, Just went through the link and has answered most of my questions.

Cheers

yeah plugs off mate !! thats what makes it all the more fun.

or you can cut and resolder...

ha thats the go , can you sit back and have a coldie watching him do it lol

Hmmm ... should'a paid someone to do it ......

Tank had a stupid balance pipe going around the frame, ended up draining the tank. then got to the plugs .... stubborn little f#*kers! .... finally got them off, got wires through the bars with a bit of messing around.

Putting it all back together and have just found there is no dimples for the wiring where the clutch and brake clamps around the bar ..... FARK!!!!!!!! may need to consult engineering shop to press them in ???

I haven't done any but I was under the impression that if you did internal wiring you didn't need dimples...I thought the wiring went into the bars under the switch blocks...

yeah my "cheap" t bars didn't have the holes under the switch blocks quite in the right place I had to grind bigger holes and deburr, good bars are no problem though

Problem is even though the bars are wired internally the holes in the bars where the wires from the switch blocks enter the bar is on the wrong side of the clamps for the clutch/brake, not under the switch block itself, the wires need to run between the clamp and the bar.

Well have checked possible options of grinding clamps to allow room for the wiring - messy and probably wont look real good. Grinding out the holes - will weaken the bars as I need to move the holes about 1". Pressing in dimples - have decided that this will probably look the best and not weaken the bars.

With a bit of messing around I have managed to feed some conduit over the wires up inside the bars, hopefully this will help stop any rubbing/cutting on the wires.

As Daggs says ...."cheap bars" ..... I'm sure the better more expensive brands this wouldn't happen, although they are cheap the missing dimples is the only problem I have found with them, they actually seem to be pretty good quality and finish.

Thanks for all the feedback so far it is helping heaps and hopefully saving me some future dramas

Finally got the bars on and all back together, ended up with a combination of grinding clamps and holes.

Got a bit of a ride ride in and was amazed how much more comfortable the bike is now, the extra pull back and lower hand position is awesome.

good one!!! Any pics?

Not the greatest of photographers ....

looks sunny outside the carport, wheel it out there and take another pic or two lol, and i hope those oil stains ain't from yr bike ha ha

Berms - after doing mine my recommendation would be - if ya can come up with the cash pay someone else!

My stealer told me their mechanics usually take at least 3 hours and that is to swap a set of factory bars out. Mine ended up taking a day and a half.

Tank will need to come off regardless to get at the plugs, depending on how the Deluxe is wired you may still need to disassemble the plugs to free the wiring from the frame/triple tree, and if you plan on changing switch blocks the wiring will either need to come out of those new bars or be cut and re-soldered, the backs of the switches themselves are resign filled and the wires can't be disconnected, may be able to get around aal this if you need to be adding extensions.

On mine I had to almost completely drain the tank - all but about 1ltr, there is a balance hose up the front that runs from the bottom of one side of the tank to the other under the frame it needs to be disconected to free thae tank from the bike, I siphoned my tank out as much as I could and then with the bike on the side stand drained what was left when I undid the balance hose on the high side, it can get a bit messy if ya not ready with the drain container, you will end up with a bit left in the lower side tank, as long as you don't tip it up to much you won't lose anymore fuel.

If you end up needing to dissasemble the plugs I can recommend getting a long sewing needle from the missus and snip the sharp end off, you shouldn't need to pull the plug housing to pieces to free the wire and terminal, use the needle up in the end of the plug to release the wire and crimp terminal from the plug housing you will see a little hole next to each terminal push the needle up there it will take a bit of force to unclip the terminal, dont pull on the wire while trying to free the terminal just use the needle with a pair of pliers to push the terminal out backward, once uncliped it will just carefully pull out.

Good luck ....