zoi84, thanks man. Glad you agree. I have to say I reckon that a set of black V&H short shots look the best of any pipes on the Iron. There is a reason why every second bike you see on the web has them on - they just look perfect. Walka from VPW on here sells the Bassani pipes, but as you say, they ain't cheap. Sound fantastic though. You get what you pay for I suppose. The drilled stockers is by far the best and cheapest exhaust mod you can do. Damon on this forum put me onto it, look here:
http://www.hdforums.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=71&forumid=1&postid=178897&view=topic
I just used a step drill and an extension from Bunnings, but used put two circular built up sections of insulation tape to make a guide to centre the drill in the muffler. The whole job took about 20 minutes from start to finish. I agree with Birch - they are not really loud enough to attract unwarranted attention from the cops or the EPA idiots, but still sound like a Harley, not a chaff cutter with asthma. Good mod to do while saving up for other pipes. Being paranoid, I got another set of stock mufflers and put them in the garage in case I ever get pinged, but really this is probably not needed.
PS, Birch just said the new rear shocks were sent today - any luck and I can fit them over the weekend.... Schweet
SIR883, a newbie question. When you changed your rear shocks, did you use a bike lift to hold the rear off the ground at full sag, or did you change one side at a time with the bike sitting on the side stand? Using a lift seems the better way to do it, and I was thinking of making a cradle for my trolley jack to lift the rear of the bike anyway, but thought I would ask the dumb question.
Good question mate, i should have outlined what i did for newbies.
Correct..you have to make sure something is supporting the back half of the bike. Don't do it one by one...coz as soon as you remove one shock it sinks quick and theres a chance you can damage the plastic bracket just above the shocks.
What i did used some rope and tied it to the ceiling and threaded through under the rear fender to support the weight while i removed the shocks. Dont change it with the bike tilted on its side stand. or their will be more weight on the side stand side. I just put a piece of wood under the side stand so the bike was upright. Had a mate hold the bike from the front just for support, coz the bike can tip on it s right with the piece of wood under the side stand. Once its supported by the rope and securely upright you just take the stocks off and put the new ones on.
Does that make sense? if you can think of a better way post a description.
Post pics when your done mate.
Cheers
TC, thanks mate for posting the link and explaining the process of drilling the mufflers. Helps a lot to understand the procedure. Mate it looks like you have a fair idea on how to lift the bike but I thought I just let you now, Repco has on sale a proper bike jack/lift for $149.00 reduced from $249.00 . I had a look and it seems to be a good quality one.
SIR, got in contact with Dennis from SPS Fabrication and as soon as I mentioned your name, as you told me, he knew it straight away what I am after. Now I just have to send him a drawing of what exactly I want as I am going to change mine a little bit. I do have though another question for ya mate, if you don't mind of course, it’s about cables (brake, throttle, clutch etc) - did you replace your stock once with completely new or did you just use extensions?
haaahah good to hear...
The stock cables for brake throttle and clutch reached fine for my bars.
any bars with more than a 10" rise will need extensions.
Yeh customs bars are great coz you can make them how you want and you know it will be different. I want another set of bars with a narrower base! Check out the video below..Like the ones on this bike! this vid is what made me want these bars!! actually made me want the whole goddamn bike!! hha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5eS86tgH8U&playnext=1&videos=QmwE3jVq71A
That's an awesome bike.Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr all those ideas, mate my wife will divorce me soon if I continue to fill my head with those ideas. Anyway, I have a video respond to your bike:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ES4WrJ2pLfA&feature=player_embedded#!
Yep that bike is awesome...I will eventually rebuild my bike like these bikes...but only when my bike is getting on like 10years old. Thats when i will get bored and chop it into a bobber.
Bucket, yeh you right the tank is not everyones taste. Maybe he could have got a bigger tank to fill that part of the frame.
Cool.
Love to see photos when you get around to it.....
r u serious? dang...how much were they charging? if you have the right tools its really easy mate...you just unscrew everything and replace the bar.
Id be happy to run you through it. I will try and gather pics for ya to so i dont have to type much on the thread.
You will need at 'imperial' set of allen keys to allow the front brake line to reach. that was the only thing i got stuck on! youll know what i mean.
Mate you wouldn't believe...they said if I want cables to be internally wired(which I don't understand what they mean by that) 9hrs labor or if externally wired 5hrs at $93.00 hourly rate.Unbeliveable!!!!
ahhaha il be hard pressed to find someone who will pay that money!
Wired internally means that they feed the wires for the controls through the bars...i agree that will be a big job...but it will NOT take 9 hours! If they wire internally they have to remove the nearly the whole top half of the bike including the tank. Big job...for a newbie.
I just did it externally for now...but everything works fine. If you check out my pics again on the first page of this thread i have a few wires near my handle bars...i dont mind them.
I will try put together a step by step pic thread.
