Hi

I think my gearbox is playing up.

On start up I always let the engine idle for 2 to 3 minutes before riding but even though the engine is quite warm the initial engagement of the first gear goes with a big CLANK. It does not improve till about 5 minutes after starting riding when gearbox warms up.

Is that normal? Can I do anything to get rid of it?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

(The bike was serviced recently - approx 1000km ago but the clank is still there)

Thanks RT, will do it tomorrw morning and will let you know.

One thing I noticed is the colder the weather outside, the bigger the clank.

OK, thanks

I was't concerned about the clunk into 1st or the clunky gear change untill I took a demo (demolision) bike for a spin, figuered it would wear in with time but now I read and think about internal adjustment I'm gunna have a chat with the head spanner spinner next time I'm in there.

Hi czarek,

Another thing ya want to check is how much oil is in the primary chain case, too much oil will cause clutch drag as well. There is a caution notice in the owners manual re overfill of chain case that states that it can cause rough clutch engagement etc it should be no more than .95 litres (32 ozs)

I put Amsoil 20-50 in engine and chain case with no probs at all, just a slight clunk when cold only

Bt

Try Pro Blend Motorcycle Cool Cruisin  $38.95 from VPW

Jeeze Scotty you should know by now that all your explainations are wrong.....

I hope this LV bicycles person realises that all Hitler's General's plans were wrong too... see how far it got poor old Adolf... but he was right!

Czarek . Warm it up for a couple more minutes until the idle drops down to normal ?

Brett - you still have the best avitare pic on this site

Now where were we, yes clutch set-up

A breif history on my bike.

6000klm, Clutch cover destroyed rear wheel of Hyundai Exel, cover and outer primary (along with most of the bike) replaced under insurance.

8000klm, Diaphram spring cracked on the way to dealer for 8000 service. Fixed under warrenty and ready for pick up at original pick up time. Not all dealers are bad and not all dealers are hard to get along with

16000klm, I read this topic and think "It's always been clunky N to 1 and most up and down shifts as well.

Changed primary and g/box oil (they were due looking at what came out) to good quality good name brands and made no differance.

Clutch was due for adjustment (8000klm after new spring) so I checked where it was

1/16 free play, 1/4 turn out on the pushrod

and used Scotty's method. Dont get me wrong or throw rocks at me but unless I stuffed up this gave 1/2 turn out from where it was no mater where I started, ie. the more I tightened the cable the more I had to wind the adjuster.

Scotty's method would then be apsobloddybrilliant for setting lever travel for a new set of grips etc.. so I returned to the "as was" setting and started again with LV's method witch was always gunna end with 1 turn out and to be fair I didn't ride her but it felt like shit so I set it at 3/4 turns out and with rain coming went for a cruise and while it was not as loud going into each gear you new it was there unless you are deaf.

Next time I can be stuffed I will change it to 1/2 turn out, ie. the same as where it would be if I went with Scotty's method.

That my 2 cents and 2 hours of reshearch.

Just to throw a bent spanner in the works but I have a rocker ( I dont know RR ) and it is set up just like scotty explained. I have found that when changing to 1 from N if I hold the clutch in for 20 seconds B4 changing, it makes no ( yes, no noise) noise. This might not apply to Dynas :-)

that would also apply when changing from N to 1

come across this all the time genrally its due to a high idel, wait till it warms up give it a blap idel should drop and it should go in with less of a clunk, next service notifiey your tech and and check if your idel is set on the base limit via the ecu

p.s how many rocker riders have noticed that there front wheel sits about 15mm left of center to the neck!!!! ??? dont worrie its from the factory but I dont even want to know why good news is they turn quick left!

The rocker is soo much smotther than other HD models tha I hand;nt noticed the difference.

I am impressed with the handleing of the rocker, and this being the case maybe all HD's need offset beams.

the park light is offset!

Cheers Scotty
You where right, I have to learn to read the instructions before JD instead of after lots of JD
Had another go and presto, the adjuster screw ended up very close to 3/4 turns out I picked with the guess-a-gauge.
Took it for longer test ride to warm up tranny and it's bloody amazing, miles better.
Thanks mate

Wow, this thread was a real battle. I watched the mechanic at my "very last" under warranty service adjust the clutch, but as I've got a bit of clunking going on I thought I would check it again myself. I would like to know if my manual is correct in saying the locknut on the clutch pack pushrod adjuster has to be tightened up to 72 to 120 inch pounds ?? It doesn't sound like enough to me, I assume you guys are just going by feel.