2010 FLHR

Before I picked it up I noticed the addition of a butterfly valve on the header pre R/H muffler. My 05 didn't have one of them.

The dealer said 'Oh that - we disable all those before they leave the shop.'

Thing is I have noticed that yes it probably has been disabled as it never seems to move. But disabled closed.

Should it open at idle in nuetral?

So it seems that it is now permanently closed. Isn't this defeating the object? I thought the deal was to open the R/H muffler up ALL

the time. Has the dealer only done half the job? Should it be mechanically fastened open or can they make it stay open permanently via software?

If I open it manually by hand it sounds much better and the slip on's seem more ballanced.

Any help much appreciated.

Ta

D

Not sure what sort of damage i'm doing, but I pinned the bastard open for now. They told me they had disabled it but was closed all the time.
Doing the true dual thing in a couple of weeks with bike tuned to suit, so it shouldn't be a problem (I hope!)
As it stands now its got slip ons and SE heavy breather that they "apparently" tuned to suit but who knows?
With the advice I'm reading on here I'll probably go TTS and have a go at tuning it myself - apparently you can disable the active exhaust control and remove it altogether, servo and all and Pin the flap open if you keep the standard headers. I think there was a thread in the workshop section about it
Alot of blokes on here with a better understanding of this computer stuff than me but thats my 2 cents worth.....

Just an update from me............

Decided to wire the valve open. 10 minutes and job's a good un. Runs cooler now.

Slip ons.......... I have been deliberating for some time what to go for. I had SE touring mufflers on my 05 and they sounded NICE. Wanted someting simillar but was told SE have tamed them down ALOT. Looked at and listened to some fat shots at the local but not too impressed with them. So after a bit of research I ordered a pair of Jackpot dyno tuned mufflers from Fuelmoto in the US. $299 US + postage and they were with me in a week. Bolted them up and now a happy bunny. Sound is a nice deep rich tone, not too obnoxious and really come to life when you give her some gun. Bottom line......Now sounds like a Harley!

So I have it looking and sounding good. Next job .........make it breathe a liitle easier. Thinking of a SE filter kit and a power commander 5. Some more research first though.........

Cheers fellas

D

 

I find it pretty hard to comprehend how these devices are supposed to be beneficial to emissions control.

 

For many years these types of devices fitted to many exhaust systems on other types of vehicles were known as "Exhaust Brakes"

 

Yes, this is one of the speels that was used to introduce the Active Exhaust System in 2007.

 

"Quote"

 

This active exhaust system is designed to optimize the power of the 96 inch engine. It is also designed to have a better sound than previous stock exhaust systems. The "active" part of the exhaust is a valve that closes at high engine loads. This closure gives the exhaust more back pressure and increases its efficiency. It also decreases the sound at high engine loads. The result is a deeper rumble at idle and low loads and, at the top, an exhaust system that meets sound standards. This is for exhaust systems what fuel injection was for intakes. A system that reacts to its environment in order to run more efficiently.

"End Quote"

 

source; www.sysharleydavidson.com.au/RunScript.asp

 

Thanks for your explanation gm, much appreciated, fills in all the gaps and makes much more sense than all the other speels I've heard.

 

Cheers Mate.

GM - Thanks for that - Your explanation makes complete sense to me and seems the most likely scenario given what they were striving to achieve.........Still sucks though!

D

I deactivated the ective exhaust with my power vision tuner, same can be done with a SERT.
However once done the valve is left in the default closed position on my 2014 fatbob.
so upon closer inspection I can see that the cable drive mounted on the battery box has a convenient sized 29mm nut that if you turn counter clockwise it pulls the cable and opens the valve. the resistance provided by the motor is enough to overcome the spring tension on the valve and thus leaves the valve open.

problem solved, bike is now running through both pipes at all rpm and speeds.

see the attcahed pics to show the cable "nut" you need to turn.

Couple of ways to open these.

Start bike, they are open at idle. Find the plug that goes into the servo and disconnect it whilst the bike is running.. It will now stay open at all times.

Or disconnect servo and cable. Take that stuff off the bike. Hold the flapper open, drill a small hole from the outside into the section that rotates and insert a self tapper. Method 1 is the quickest and easiest.

I then put a calibration in with my TTS tuner the suits the engine build without the active exhaust / intake tables. The international cals have the exhaust flapper tables so go with a US cal.

Awwwww......just get yerself an earlier model without all that crap!