Online: B0nes, WideglidingNZ

Cams for my 2008 Glide

  • dolphinman
    dolphinman
    14 years ago

    G,day all.

    I have got to a place where i think cams are next. Problem is which one. I have fitted a S/E race tuner and a nice map to suit where my bike is now. Stage 1 air, true duals ( Rinehart  slipons ) etc. A feature of the new mapping has moved the limiter from 5 1/2 to 8000rpm so now i am up there with the boys. Quite a change.

    I,m not looking for top end but more in the 80k to 140 area ( midrange and torque ) Also which way to go re pushrods?  Perfect fit or adjustable? The bolt cutter thing is a nasty picture for me but who knows?

    I,m off to Sturgis and want to buy the cams and pushrods there as a momento of my trip, among other stuff I am sure. My son will be with me so he will be looking for gear for his Springer too. ( a bad influence )

    Waiting for the words.

    Dolphinman

  • kingkingking
    kingkingking
    14 years ago
    Geezus H put your limiter back down to 6 1/2 tops. At 6500 your stock valve springs cant keep up and your valves will be floating. At 8000 I would expect to be picking bits of rod, case and crank up off the freeway.

    The motor will not make power up there anyhow.

    As for your cams, S&S 510s. Gear or chain drive available. Adjustable pushrod are quicker and easier. Go the bolt cutters too....
  • PigironBob
    PigironBob
    14 years ago
    Yeah + 1 for setting the rev limiter 6500, most go with 6,200.
  • Boss Hog
    Boss Hog
    14 years ago
    Hey D........I agree, go the S & S gear drives. Minimum 10hp, but mostly mid-range. Lets the engine just run on & on. I have them on my "05 Softy & also had them on my "03 Ultra that I have just sold. They are the ducks guts! Godd luck with it. Hey do you want someone to give a hand with your bags at Sturgis? Cheers
  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    I thought that I would just jump in here. I am looking to replace the two cam chain tensioners on my 2005 88ci T/Cam engine which is now at 42,000Km. I have the cam cover off and the out tensioner shoe is half worn, so they need replacement. I don't plan to change the stock cams, or the bearings, so I just need to get the cam plate off and back on - so I can get to the tensioners on the secondary cam chain. (I already had the exhaust system off, so opening up the cam case to check the tensioners was an easy next step. Yes, I will also replace the push rods with adjustables.)

    To do this job I need a few little tools - which I could order from George's Garage, but thought that I would ask here first, if anyone has these tools and would be interested in lending or selling them to me. I am located on the west side of Brisbane. For each of the 3 tools I have given the Georges and JIMS part numbers.

    Tool 1: Cam Tensioner Unloader
    Georges 320500 Cam Tensioner Unloader
    JIMS 1283 Cam Chain Tensioner Unloader
    HD 94075-09 Cam Chain Tensioner Tool

    Tool 2: Crank & Sprocket lock tool
    Georges 320520 Cam/Pinion Gear Locking Tool
    JIMS 1285 Cam & Crank Sprocket Lock Tool

    Tool 3: Oil Pump Alignment Screws
    Georges 320530 Oil Pump Alignment Screws
    JIMS 33443 Multi-Purpose Alignment Tool

    BTW, if you want to see a picture show of the job, including bearing replacement have a look at this link:http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/tensionerinstall.htm  There are also chapters on the job in Chris Maida's 101 Harley-Davidson Twin Cam Performance Projects.
    Replacing the cams requires additional tools for pulling and fitting the bearings - cam bearings and inner bearings, as well as the cam alignment blocks. You can see all these at www.georges-garage.com .

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    A few reasons but its worth reviewing. Thanks for asking.

    Cost: Based on purchasing the tools direct from George's, it would add about $400 - $500 + just for the tools to remove and replace the cam and inner bearings. If I did this, I would just take the bike to the shop to do it. Also, I've decided not to change the cams either. Its just an opportunistic fix whilst I have it stripped down.

    Condition: As far as I know, the bearings are OK, albeit originals. If I leave the cams on the cam plate, the cam bearings won't require replacement. The rear cam on the 05 has a roller bearing. I only opened the case because I already had the exhaust off (for a cracked rear header pipe) and because I'd been given notice to check the tensioner wear at the next service. If someone was to lend me the bearing tools, I would change them over too, as my costs would then only be the cost of the bearings.

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    The other consideration is that these tools are for the 88 cube engine up to 2006 models only, so in all likelihood I would be using them only this once.

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    Thanks Scotty,
    That is very valuable information indeed.
    It looked to me from the pic below as though it can be done.
    This appears to show the inner tensioner in the retracted position secured with a pin from the outside of the plate.
    Can you recall what it is about the configuration that obstructs the removal of the tensioner, after it has been retracted?

    Inner Cam Tensioner - retracted

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    I understand. The spring needs to be fully relaxed, so it would need to pass clockwise past where the chain and cam is to relax. Then it can be removed. Is that correct?

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    Thanks for the helpful replies.

    The cams will have to be removed and replaced to be able to replace the inner tensioner. From this it looks like I might also have to replace the bearings for the in the Cam plate for the Rear and Front bearings. That would at least require bearing tools to pull and fit the bearings onto the ends of the cams, or its off to the workshop. Hopefull, I can find someone to assist me with a loan of tools - in Brisbane area.

    About replacing the cam bearings, is it a) essential because the bearings are damaged by the work of removing them; or b) recommended as good maintenance practice?

    The pages below seems show a non-damaging method of removal and lead me to consider that if I don't get the bearing tools, then may well survive a reinstall at least in a condition equivalent to their current state. (These do also show replacement of the bearings using a generic 150mm tool.)
    - Removal by oven heat method: http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/tensionerinstall4.htm
    - Replacemeht method: http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/tensionerinstall6.htm

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    Scotty,
    Thanks for the ongoing assistance on this matter.
    I am not overly familiar with bearing pullers and separators tools and their use, apart from what I see on http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/tensionerinstall5.htm (though I do seem to vaguely recall doing some work on bearings on bikes now long past.)

    A google search turns up a range of product for sale locally at http://www.transquip.com.au/productlist.aspx?ID=211
    From this I guess that I would need 10774 for a 2 leg 150mm puller ($75.65) and 10706 for 50mm bearing separator plates ($74.07). Would that be good guess?

    Are the sockets that you mention used on the end of the cam puller, like the pic on http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/tensionerinstall5.htm ?

    When you say a "press fit", I guess that you don't mean a hydraulic press but only manual pressure, and maybe a tap or two?

    This is sounding likes its a lot more doable!

    As I understand it, the stock 17045-99C Cam Installation Kit has the required Cams and parts.

  • dolphinman
    dolphinman
    14 years ago

    g,day one and all. lots of good words and thank you for them... as i reckon i won,t go further than the cams and the stuff i've done to date the 211 by se seem to be good for me... a further non important question is re idle... as ya know the new 'uns dont have the lumpy idle... will that come with the 211's??... like i said, non important but a bonus if it sounds right hey?? thanks again peeps. dolphinman

  • gahobbsau
    gahobbsau
    14 years ago

    Any tips on where best to buy this stuff?

    Zippers Performance looks like a good one stop shop in the US.

    I'll probably go the Andrews 21 cams, bearing service set, tensioners, and a few tools. I also have a shifter seal leak, so I need some tools for that too, and a seals for that and the primary area. (Cometic double lip seal.)

    Any tips on where to get the best price, shipping and service appreciated.

  • robcig
    robcig
    14 years ago
    M&M Cycles Ohio, are very good to deal with
  • jaxdwg
    jaxdwg
    14 years ago

    being injected, the computer will keep it idling at the same rpm it is now. It will sound a bit healthier but not the pa-dump pa-dump you get at the lower idle rpms you can get from adjusting the idle down on a carbed bike. ----------jack

  • robcig
    robcig
    14 years ago
    I gotta say, the potato potato, or pa-dump pa-dump is more prominent with my new cams.. Love it!!!!