103" build options

  • Barney
    Barney
    15 years ago

     G`day and happy Australia day to all, i know this has been done to death but here goes. Ive decided to upgrade my dyna to a 103", after much reading i have settled on using an andrews 54h cam as i believe it suits my riding habits/style. I am now asking for advice in regards to head/piston combos. Here is a list of some possible options, i would appreciate advice from the experts as to the pros and cons of each one. Thanking you in advance Barney.

    BUILD 1 - SE st1 kit, 54h cam and stock heads or modified stock heads ie- ccd and bigger intake valves.

    BUILD 2 - SE 103" barrels, SE forged high comp pistons, 54h cam and SE pro twin-cam ACR heads.(95cc combustion chambers and big valves, including ACRs)

    BUILD 3 - SE 103st1 kit , 54h cam and SE pro twin-cam MCR heads (76cc combustion chambers and not much else of a description, thanks SE).

  • DynaRider
    DynaRider
    15 years ago
    I have mentioned on here before, that the HD SE heads seem(to me, at least) to be more suited for higher revving, larger capacity engines, as opposed to a 103 street type build.
    For any given capacity cylinder, and power range that you are trying to achieve, there is a suitable valve size/port size that will "work well".
    For a 103 street type build, 1900 intake valve, and 1625 ex valve, seem compatible. The SE heads use much larger valves.
    If you take the view that the throat size of the port should be 85% of the valve size, then you will not have much work to do on a stock head, as the std throat size is way too large for the std size valve. On the inlet, the stock valve is 1810, but with a throat of more than 1600.
    The port itself is already absolutely large enough to provide adequate airflow, while not being so large as to overly inhibit velocity.
    To me, the SE heads are just "too big".
    To rework your own heads is well worth considering.
    Those flat top 103 cast HD pistons are well priced, and I think suitable for "normal" riding(whatever that actually is) They are rated up to 6200 rpm, which most would never see regularly, if ever.
    I think build 1 would most likely outperform the others easily as far as street goes. If you were consistently dropping the clutch at 4000 rpm and holding it flat, then the others would come into their own.
    Every single time you leave a traffic light, you have to allow for the fact that you may or may not be about to operate the engine between 3000 and 6000 rpm ,but that you will definitely operate it between 1000 and 3000 rpm.
    All the best
    DR
  • Barney
    Barney
    15 years ago

     Thanks guys for your advice, really appreciate it and as such have decided to go with build 1. After seeing Scotty`s pic of that piston im a bit concerned about using SE pistons, can anyone suggest more appropriate ones that would work with 1.9 inlet valves? or for the cost of it would i be better off just keeping stock valves, cc ing heads for 9.8:1 static CR and port matching inlet myself? Lastly the Andrews site says "works well with CRs up to 10:1, does this mean static or corrected CR?

                     Cheers Barney.

  • Barney
    Barney
    15 years ago

     Ando, already have the TTS and have 54H cams and D&D fatcat on their way. How did you work out the corrected comp? have been looking on "big boyz calculator" and with your build specs i can only get 9.78:1 corrected, am i missing something or doing it wrong? also are you running comp releases? 

                             Barney.

  • Barney
    Barney
    15 years ago

     Cheers mate, i think i found the missing link. The volume of the piston reliefs (i think) , i based my calculations on -3.0ccs. Like Scotty said unless you actually measure you dont know, please excuse my ignorance.  Im impressed by your build and am looking at doing something  similar.

                                                                                             Barney.