I've just put in a Andrews 26g cam in the 2001 Road King. No modifications needed. So far so good. Plenty of torque. The good thing is you'll never have to replace anything again if you intend to keep the bike and you do a lot of kms. I do get a throatier sounding exhaust note, kind of like riding a turbocharged jackhammer.

Yes, I did get around to fitting gear drive cams to my 2004 Dyna. Not without some hiccups on my behalf.

I fitted 'heavy duty roller bearings' on the cam plate which is the update for standard cams. I read the catalogue wrong when ordering parts, wonder why I had millions of miles of end play but the penny dropped and I went and bought some ball bearing type bearings from the local bearing service place.

Also fitted Torrington inner bearings.

With the cam support plate fitted, I had pinion movement of .0025 - .00275 thou with the cam support support plate off the run-out got worse .0035thou. I reckon I was on the borderline, so I went ahead.  The oil pump looked like it was not set up properly from the start, just a bit off centre, as I could see scuff marks on one side and some ligth pit marks a bit further in, it looked like bits of the tensioner may have gone through it!

It looked like the tensioner was about 15-20% worn at 30 000kms.

Had some hassles with the wood rough keys with burrs sticking out like dogs n**s nothing an angle grinder didn't fix!

Once the gears were all set up the inner gears had 3/4 of a thou play - and the outer gears varied from 3/4th play - 3thou

I measured in eight different places on the outer cam gear and got huge variations, so I pulled the gear off and filed the key steel to shape as it had a slither of steel sliced off it while I was screwing the outer cam gear on. I reckon it was making the cog egg shape - after all that playing around my clearances got a little better. 

There was only a faint whine in the gears for about 20kms then it seemed alright after that. I sat between 70 - 100km/h for about 100kms cruisin' around the coastline where the temperature was a bit cooler for the engine.

Everything sounds good!

This is the first time I had been inside a Harley. Took lots of reading plus my backyard mechanical knowledge- but it felt good when it all worked out - so far!

I used Andrews 26G Cams and S&S Gears and S&S adjustable pushrods. 

I started the 'operation' on the 3-01-10 and it took me seven days to complete including four hours looking for an exhaust flange nut that dropped between the starter motor - beltdrive - primary cover. I even laid the bike totally on its side to look up its arse to find the nut (who was the nut?) Next morning I used the air compressor for 15 mins and it finally made its way to the ground.

So if you are thinking about putting gears in your bike, check the pinion play first, before buying anything.

also thanks to Scotty for your advice on O rings and oil holes.

Regards,

Rossy

i have run gear drive cams in my 01 for 7 years not one problem, i even twisted the flywheels but the gear drive was still ok, oil pump was stuffed had to replace flywheels but the same ol s&s gears still in. there is no gain in power or torque changing from chain to gear drive cams its just something you can do to cut maintainance down on the older twin cams ( pre ? ) good if your keeping a bike long term. if personaly i was doing the same thing today, i think i would like to try ol Bobby woods belt drive set up as that set up uses helli gears inner ( no noise) and a belt drive outter. not sure if it will fit all years. the beauty of this type set up is that you can change cam timming for fine tunning, it,s easy to do with the belt outer. but as with most things from ol Bobby they don't come cheap. late model bikes if they are not having a problem just leave them as they can now take higher lift cams so no reason to change.

I have just placed my order for Andrews 26,s for my Deluxe. As stated in other discussions, I am going to stick with the current spring loaded tensioners, as I will update to a bagger in a couple of years, and did not want to spend too much. Also, not knowing my crank runout, it was a no brainer. For peace of mind, I wanted to change the tensioners, and smooth out the chain on a buffing wheel. My research tells me that this method should see the new shoes last a while without too many issues. Also, while the cam plate was off, good opportunity to upgrade to 26's...

So guys, what's a ballpark figure for changing to gear driven cams. I've got a stock rocka. All shops are different,I know, but i'm just after a guesstimate if possible.Any answers appreciated.

I was quoted $900 delivered from M&M cycles, everything included. $855 American Classic Motors (E Bay). As I said in the previous post, I'll replace cams, bearings, adjustable pushrods, and keep the silent chain setup with stock tensioners. (BTW, I had all of this delivered two weeks ago from M&M for $650). I have been qouted $260 to fit plus a dyno. The stealer wanted $650.....not including dyno,,,, SHOP AROUND!!!!!!