hi , just to let you know when hooking-up the H1-4, earth the green voes wire & don't use a voes intake maniflod switch the instruction sheet is wrong but otherwise corect buy having the green wire to ground it puts moudle in normal mode only on pre EVO, cheers
hi , the voes is not required on pre EVO's not unless you have high comp ratio or a big stroker, with-out the green wire ground your bike is not in the normal mode on the module set to voes on the H1-4 unit, the instruction sheet is incorect from crane iv'e been thru this with them on the fax machine & they said the engineer had a bad day when he wrote it out , its only a guide line for set-up but the bit about the green wire & needing a VOES switch on the inlet on pre EVO's they admitted it to be wrong.
i can explain why if you like it takes a bit thats all but anyway shovels heads are only 7.5 to 1 C.R. & only have points & mechanical bob weights for ADV curve they will go to full ADV within 2,000 rpm but do not ping (pinking) is the corect word not pinging.> is for sonars etc.
EVO's need a slower ADV curve, VEOS retards timing when you throttle up , with 7.5 C.R. you don't need this in 1979 shovel came out with & elect ign system but it still had the bob weights + DYNA elect ign systems ( dyna is the brand name) they use the bob weights also, with bob weights you can put heavy springs & lighten the outer weights to dring the ADV curve in later e,g, 2,500 to 3,500 rpm its just mechanicial instead of been elect opp dial switch the bobweights need to be greased & service reg as they wear out , cheers i had to work this-out myself years ago well i hope this helps ive fitted many, the electician"s don't know they just wire them-up as the instruction sheet its up to the tuner/mechanic to work it out i did a few early models & still do, castiron sporty & shovel cheers
Thanks for the info m8,
Mine was an 81FXEF, in 81 (I think it started in 80 till 84) the Moco dropped the comp ratio from 8.5 to 1 to 7.4 to 1.
Because I had to do a rebuild within 2 months of owning the bike (pistons so loose we went .20 thou over) I put the comp ratio back to 8.5 to 1. I eventually changed the ignition to a Dyna S with the standard wights advance system. It ran very well.
With the Evo I bought, I had a choice of the Dyna 2000i or the HI-4, I went with the dyna as I'm not able to kickstart anymore.
I have however done some homework on the HI-4 and will add your info to it, Thanks.
Regards,
Cris.
hi, i forgot to mention that you have to re-do the timing. re set it as per static timing in the instruction sheet. with the front cylinder at the T.D.C. on the compression stroke which will be the stroke mark in the window. the dot is 35 degress B.T.D.C.
set all module dials advance curve etc. at 12 oclock. and then set timing with timing light.
once that is done advance the timing a bees dick, which is turn the backing plate clock wise. that will be close enough for you to start the engine and set the timing with a timing light , the timing mark should be close in that window with that spec. and set the timing with the dot in the middle of the window at about 2,500 rpm - 3500 rpm with a timing light that way you've timed it using the full advanced timing mark as should be.
if you unearth the green wire while setting the timing with the timing light, you will see how far it retards as an example. normally the V.E.O.S. switch in normal mode is earthed out. when you excellerate the vacum switch unearths which retards the timing 6 degress so there's no pinking when you load up on the excellerater. cheers i thought i better let you know
hi , 1979 later T.D.C. mark is a stroke mark on the flywheel & the dot is your 35 deg's full ADV mark ,
on early pre 1979 the dot is T.D.C. & the full ADV mark is the stroke mark i forgot to add that bit just in case , cheers
