hey all,

not much to report yet, did a heap of measuring yesterday and then pulled std wheel out and fitted new wheel minus tyre to check spacings.

while the overall hub width is correct, the offset isn't. Here is what I will have to do:

-space the wheel 5mm more over to the brake side

-machine up an 8mm wide spacer to go between the hub and pulley, 5mm will get it back to std but front pulley is heaps wide so I will go an additional 3mm to get a bit more clearance between tyre and belt.

- machine 5mm off the caliper mount on the face where it meets up to the swingarm. This way the spacing of the brake disc and caliper stays std.

I fabricated a couple of new rear indicator brackets, these bolt on the inside of top shock mount and go behind the fender rail/strut so once the indicator is mounted the bracket won't be seen at all and the wiring is outside of the fender so won't get in the way of the wider tyre.

Also welded a captive nut on the bracket for the back fender mount, I actually did this a while ago when I first relocated my rears. Rear bolt goes in from the outside now rather than in from under the guard.

Hers a few pics.... there will be more

rear stripped down a bit

new 18" x 5.5" wheel

rear indicator bracket, you'll see better once fitted " src="/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif" />

rear fender mount captive nuts

pulley side axle spacer

pulley to hub spacer (to be made) location

machine this face

the timing has worked out well, the weather is shit here so wouldn't be out riding anyway " src="/DesktopModules/NTForums/themes/_default/emoticons/smile.gif" />

cheers,

 

316 stainless (plentiful supplies) or T6 Alloy if we have any laying around at work

yeah i know you can buy them but I don't like that swear word & I like making whatever I can, after all being a fitter & turner and also this way I get the exact dimensions i want or need

mate ur  will be a easy job 4 ya

went into work early, made the axle spacer and machined down the caliper mount, dropped it to the tyre joint after work and they fitted the tyre for nix, gotta love that hopefully i'll go in early tomorrow too and get the pulley spacer made

Looking at the way your doing this. I noticed that your taking some away from the right and adding to the left.

Is the tire going to be centered?

Yep that's what I'm doing, this will get the tyre smack bang in the centre.

With the hub offset that came with this wheel the centre of the rim was 5mm to the left (pulley side) so all im doing is centering the wheel/tyre and giving 3mm extra clearance between the tyre and drive belt.

I've Heard the if you just swap to a 19mm Belt and Pulley the Wheel would go straight on

nah its cool, my front pulley has about 6 or 7 mm from the left face to where it normally runs and so as i'm moving it over 3mm, i'll still have 3 or 4mm there.

if the wheel is in true the belt shouldn't be tracking off either way, don't worry i know about belts and chains and misalignment, deal with it everyday for way to many years now
anyway, got the pulley spacer made today, will throw up another couple of pics shortly....

ok thanks, i'll keep an eye on that, belts on bikes I don't have experience with, my knowledge is with industrial machinery

oh and Walka, a 19mm belt would fix belt to tyre clearance issues 4 sure but that wasn't my main issue, mine was that the whole wheel was too far off centre to the left.
i don't think i would want to go to a thinner belt tho anyway especially if I end up giving the beast a few more ponnies down the track.

what is the spec/brand of the wheel tyre combo?

what is the spec/brand of the wheel tyre combo?

here is the pulley spacer I knocked up today out of some T6 alloy

 

Wheel is a DNA 18" x 5.5" 60 spoke tyre is an Avon 200/55

all back together now, just gotta paint and mount the rear indicators, Ill get some better pictures in daylight over the weekend.

Just went for a test ride, all is good, couldn't get any decent shots with the guard on in the dark so you'll have to wait for them but it does fill out the guard very nicely.

 

here are the 2 spacers I made in situ....

and a couple more shots.....

 looking good

Yep yr right. I've got the next best thing though, employer with all the goodies and free access to them all.

hmmm shaper. haven't used one of those babies for a while. Horizontal borer is an awesome machine.

Daggs,

Awesome work M8, i'm impressed and with the precision measurements, its credit to you keep up the good work.

Amazing when you take the time and nut it all out, with the access to the right machines / tools for the job how it all falls into place doing it right first time.

How's your DNA Rims holding up..........................i'm in two welds at the moment, go with the DNA 52 spoke or the FAT Daddy 50 spoke.

Greek

nice work , id love to do that with my 99 wideglide - costly is all ive heard - at this point in time id be happy with 150-180 , instead of my anorexic 130.....

Yeah sorry wilso, don't know much about the pre '06 dynas so can't help or suggest anything there.

Greek, very happy with the DNA wheel, spokes are a pain to clean but they look good and at least they're stainless

 Dazza,

Me ,like Wilso will be watching with bated breath. Going to change the belt and pulley to 2000 model so I can fit a 150 hopefully this will work without making any structural changers because from what I have asked the only real difference between the 99 and 2000 model is the newer brake. Wilso, my suggestion would be to go for a ride on one with a 200 section tyre and you will be disappointed with the amount of body work needed to get them to corner caused by the gyro forces wanting to stand the bike up straight the faster the wheel rotates I think a 150 to a 180 would be the sweetest handling tyre IMHO.