Hi, I have just picked up a NEW 1340 Evo HD factory motor for my '98 softail. I plan on getting an aftermarket S&S air kit and decent pipes.

I am looking for simple, bang for the buck performance mods to give me good useable power.

What is the best cam and the best carb for this motor?

Thanks.

i have a ev27 cam and port and polished heads with a s&s e series carb in my evo and it keeps up alright with the twin cams.

Hey mate

I run S&S E Series, EV27, Single Fire Crane ignition and tried a couple of different pipes.  Taper Turbo's always seemed best really.  It always starts and goes good for a Bunky Bike (86 Heritage).  My primary drive and tranny ratios are different to the later Evo's (94 on I think) so I have no hope keepin up with anything other than a turtle.  However I am good to have when you ned to pull a tree out with a rope.  In 1st anyway

Will always love the Evo......good luck!

Jam

Freash built EVO's are good, no need to spend big money, those stock heads flow enough air for an 80 inch to make enough HP for street, the CV40 is fine just can radiuse front edge of slider but if you don't know what your doing leave it. Bobby Woods has some great stepped needles i'll have to check but there is one that works great on stock or mild EVO or Twin Cam and gives you great fuel economy as well, also runs nice, its a stepped needle no a full tapper. stick with a mild andrews bolt in cam like ev27 but i would just run it as it comes with a set of aussie sonic tappered duels see how it goes first. woods cams are good but ol Bobby gets his TQ from agressive valve opening and closing ramps. if you don't mind people slaming doors shut on you all the time ( lots of valve train noise) they are good just more wear and tear on valve treain. Bobby gets Andrews to make them so his prices are a lot higher than andrews cams. be careful as some what people call mild cams might need more compression to work right. generaly you need 180 pound cranking pressure or they don't make good power. you can over cam a low comp motor and have it go slower and make less power than stock i have seen that happen.

cheers

 

Well, you always have people that like one carb or another best, you can't please everyone with one thing.

i've had a few carbs over the years and i could not honestly say what was best, they were all good when they were tunned right, but with some you have to adjust the way you use the throtle at different rev's, also some get effected more from weather or elivation changes. i learnt this more when i raced as i could feel it and the time ticket confirmed in in  trap speed. the CV adjusts itself to elivation, thats just how it works. i have use on my 01 TC 95", a CV40,CV44, Bobby WOODS Rebel 43.5 ( modified cv44 ) beautifull runing carb with jets that go up in 1 thou increasements, also Bobby does a lot of work to them, i only saw a 3HP increase on a Dyno over the CV44 but it was that smooth and responcive almost like EFI to ride with, great economy too, then i got a CV51 still use that. i have had every S&S carb and i like the B & the D, i used the D on my 95" TC and i used to use it on a kick start only shovel, had adjustable air bleed and thunderjet, the D was still getting the HP to go up on my 95" @ 7,200 when the rev limit cut in on a Dyno. but i like the CV51 the best just the stock manifold it comes with is restrictive, but restriction can give you TQ so depends what you want. on a flow bench some of the Mikuni's don't flow that much air when they are mounted on there manifold, the Woods REBEL 43.5 flowed same air as a S&S G , but the G had the stock ventruri diamiter you can bore them out larger if you want more, just with the Mikuni & the S&S you need to roll the throtle open with the CV you can open it a lot faster.

take your pick and if yiou want to prove your point i'll meet you at the track and you can show me your 60 foot times and trap speed.

cheers

my evo ev27,mikuni long shots dyna single fire ignition ,better suspension went like a dream without big bucks

I have an S&S E series carb on mine, I didn't put in on so I can't compare before and after, but this bike definitely goes better than my old bike.
Then again If I wanted a fast bike I'd buy a jap bike.......

Hey Ozrodder you have been there mate!

I agree the G & D are more drag race but i like the D & the B carbs as i like the longer body, the shorty's are more for leg clearance. but i road a Shovel Kick start everywhere with the D from the time they first came out in early 80's, they were not perfect but mine worked good just would load up if you let it idle too long had to blip throtle. was kick start only, had to get special kicker sharft made up as kept breaking the stock or aftermarket kicker sharfts. i like the dual D manifold the early S&S pro motors use and have seen them used with SnS124 motors.

i've never had an EFI harley so know nothing about them, but like the Autronic & MoTeC ECU's have watched my friend map them and set them up on his engine dyno, i like engine dyno's the best but harleys motors crack everything from there firing order, have to mount them off the dyno with a belt drive hooked to dyno to isolate them.

 

Ozroder as you said:

Best Bang For Buck: Going 95" is about the best bang for buck improvement you can make for the Evo and you do have the possability to get way over 100Tq and 100Hp on a 95" which does get the Evo to fly................................

CUBES, CUBES, CUBES - 80 to 95 = 19% increase, then 80 to 103 = 29% increase

Hey Ozroder, love them sprintcars too, got to be game racing them!

That three valve head sounds good, would give you flow, and give you good TQ in the lower rev range from the single exhast valve. Jay Upton went from 4 valve on his Top Fuel bike to 3 valve, but Fuel motors are totally different.

Hey do you know John Treese?

Cheers

Hey thanks heaps guys for the awesome responses..... great info.

But if I was not going for any headwork or high compression or any of the pricey stuff..... what do you recommend for just the cam, carb, jetting etc (I dont have a carb at all at the moment) and any other "bolt on" stuff? Trying to keep it pretty simple and reliable.

Thanks again,.

hi a 310-2 LG crane cam is a good choice, cam shaft only ,use your original cam gear easier install dont have to go through the gear lash set-up + cheaper to buy . 310.2 is a bolt in cam with an early lobe centre on the intake for low & mid range with a later exh L.C. good for heavey type bike like s/tails etc can do 5 tricks to stock carb + K&N element S/E air cleaner kit works well & has a K&N element already in it .if you want to take heads off, shave .020" or .030" of heads & .010" off the bottom of the barrel as well cam works from stock to 9.5 C.R , stock pushrods are good they are chrome moly & lighter than adj type & dont cost nothing & are the same wall thickness as crane steel adj type that you pay $150 + bucks for that could be put towards a nice set of performance mufflers, cheers big bore kits are a bit of work to fit into a stock case. when changing cam allways install new inner torrington bearing esp if stock motor is 1992 & up they have the weaker INA bearing & also new cam followers stock one are cool up to 6000 rpm, cheers if i can help good, thats all i do 6 days a week is work on what were talk about

hi,  the 310-2 LG  -  crane  part number 1-1103LG i have fitted a lot of these & everybody is more than happy    e.g.  ev27 is just a stock replacement type slight performance cam , ev 46 is for light bikes, type FXR & can be a bit noisey on the  HYD tappets they have quick opening ramps  which nock the hyd s around  on some . with out upping the comp ratio esp for a heavy type bike would be a bit  less torquey down low in the rev range.  stock pushrods are cool & lighter with-out the adj part . adj are for ease of ass when doing the preload on the hyd tappet most hyd tappet have about  2m.m.  preload on them when set  . on assembley i just dummy run check on rocker boxes on T.D.C. to make sure i have 2m.m. under rocker boxes with all the bolts in place with no load on them e.g when using adj  pushrods  they are set 3 to 4 turns from top but its 6 to 7 + turns to the floor  its better to set them 3 turns  up from the bottom  so if your pushrods are a bit longer don't sweat , can check this buy clen out hyd tappet of its oil & install  at T.D.C. & push bown on push rod to see how far  it travels.  an evo motors top-end can grow upto nearly 1-2m.m. from heat expansion  from cold to hot thats why you never thrash them when they are cold  it blows the gaskets out of them because the head bolt presure is not up to its 65lb torque  they are only 45lbs cold . hope this helps,  cheers

hi the part number i gave you is for the  crane 310-2  fireball  cam ,the hi-roller cam is the same but comes  with & adj gear + or - 4 deg  you  won't  need  this & its a lot dearer $$$ . you set the fireball 310-2  up good the 1st time & you won't have to go back in there again for a long time at least 60,000klms+. . keep away from aluminium type pushrods,  S&S chrome moly pushrods are 7/16" dia , crane are 3/8 dia  same as stock dia 3/8" , gold ones are aluminium  you wouldn't  spend $$$ on something weaker than stock chrome moly pushrods . while your in the cam chest if you want to spend sum $$$ then buy a steel breather gear in S&S or JIMS  etc  they are better than the stock plastic ones . the plastic ones  wear  out & not good  for the crank cases.  cheers  that sould get you buy

hi.   the  cam  crane fireball 310-2 is the same cam, as the 310-2 LG , the LG on the end of the part number  stands for LESS GEAR   . & is the same cam shaft as the hi-roller  style  all the shaft part is the same  the bit that you call the bump stick the one with the lumpies on it .  less gear is cheaper to buy & install  because you re-use your original gear off  your  cam thats in there now  & you don't have to re-set up the gear lash  wich is an important part of the installation. i hope this helps you .  cheers i am only new  to this site 2 days ago but if i can help to put but a little into what iv'e been doin for the last 25 + years,  instead of just taking like  a lot of shops do .  its good to learn about your bike & input  to work on her  & learn yourself  its a good feeling , its not just riding them ,

hi, you need acess to a hyd press to change the cam gear & it does come with the instruction sheet , + you will have to
check cam end float $buy$ differant thickness cam shims,
1992 stock cam are about 0.060" longer they have no shim( mass produced) early style are shorter as per shovel etc , all aftermarket cams are old style & will need to be shimed-up as per pre 1992 or 94 manual , most take a 0.055" to 0.065" cam shim its in the manual how to do it , if you need any help just ask the forum,

if she is a 1992 & up motor it will need its inner cam bearing changed from an INA caged type to a full compliment torrington type inner bearing $20 part number B-138 you can use a istallation tool for this job its a lot easy than the old way ? if you are going to ride the bike a lot change the breather gear to a steel type with the $$$ you save on the adj pushrods , cheers

hi, its allways easier if you have the right tools of coarse + have done this job before, do you have some one for good help locally, cheers