Thanks Scotty for the link

I had a look and had a play with the HEAVILY RESTRICED free demo and spent the $50US.

Had another play with some old data runs and desided I needed newer runs with my current map.

Did a few runs concetrating on throttle percentage not roll ons. So 2nd gear, 15kph, open and hold still 2.5 percent throttle until a steady speed is reached then roll off. Repeat for 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 60, 80, 100 percent openings (this gets to be more fun as you go) slowing down to about 15kph with a quick rolloff and snap open to the next pecentage each time. Repeat the hole thing again in 3rd, and again in 4th except I did chichen out in the name of licence preservation at 140 kph in 4th.

This was done with my current and well played with map and running the MyTune program showed no knocking at all and even a few rich cells so I got real brave and wrote a new map using 13.5 AFR everwhere except closed loop cells which I left at 14.6 with the bias tables at the original defaults for this map (176AE104). The MyTune instructions say 14.6 for all cells but I only got 13.5 brave to start with and the results using above method and few roll ons as well.

Lots of rolloff thunder and doughy feel. MyTune found some minor knock in the rear only and some lean in 22 cells front and 21 cells rear, only 2 of those in the closed loop area.

What I did next.

Load all runs from current map and let MyTune create new VE tables, biggest change 9%, total 10 cells front and 11 cells rear changed, load this into the bike and just go for a ride. Didn't seem any different until I started doing roll ons off round abouts, WOW, I had not noticed a issue untill it was gone. Cool

What I Should have done (and will after any engine mod)

Set AFRs to 13.5, let MyTune help make new VE and spark tables and do it again with 14.0 AFR, and then do it all a third time with 14.6 AFRs and then restore AFRs to good performance settings and do the the hole test again and maybe some more map rewriting and redo tests after ever change and may be I'll get bored and never finnish it all fully, who knows

Setting every cell to 14.6 obviously includes the closed loop cells, but should I also zero the closed loop bias tables or leave them at the defaults for this map or leave them at my current settings? I assume I would get better base VE tables with the bias set at zero so that they are indead operating at 14.6 but wouldn't mind a 2nd opinion. Zero may not be possible so we'll take it to mean as low as can be set.

I also have purchased the TUNEMYHARLEY software, and I have to tell you guys, its made a huge differnece to my bike in only two tuning sessions.
I have a 08 softie, with sw211 cams, kurykyn twin velocity air, V&H BS Staggereds. A very common setup, except the std maps you get with a SEST are crap if you add cams to the mix.
The maps are only a starting point with cams, and only cater to pipes and air.
I had my bike "tuned" for want of another word from the uys at Frasers. All they did was ritchen up the VE tables in the top RPM area, from 60% throttle 4000rpm onwards.
Believe it or not my bike runs most of the time at less than 4k rpm and 60% throttle.
The map was off miles and my bike was stuttering off the line, and often felt like it was going to stall or cut-out in low speed low rev med throttle aplications, such as when coming out of a round-a-bout.
All in all a pig to ride. I took it back and the guys richened up the acel enrichment table, which is a smrt thing to do with oof-the-line bog downs. They also richened up the VE tables another 10% from 0 throttle to 25% throttle and up to 2500rpm. Big mistake but I didnt know as I dont have the dyno. I was left guessing why the fuel economy was through the floor, and the bike was fouling plugs so much.
With the software, I was able to go for a couple of runs and then load in new VE tables, and woohoo !! what a difference. The software took my VE tables down 45% in the lowRPM low throttlte opening range, and richened up the tables nearer the higher RPM. A HUGE difference to the bike I must admit and well worth the $50US. For us guys that have already bought a SEST and dont have access to good tuners ( here in WA I wish I 'd never heard of SEST and stuck with a PCIII) this software is an absolute must have. If I knew how to insert pics here I would post the pics of the before and after VE tables for you guys to see. The difference is amazing. I was at the point of shelving the SEST and buying another self-tuning EFI tuner, but this has saved my ass for sure.