Here is all the info I have compiled on the ignition switch relocation for a dyna.

I did this relocation on my streetbob it was pretty easy, but very satisfying.

I used the Harley switch keyed alike,  it takes a couple of weeks and cost $152.00 but then you can still lock your steering using the same key and you get another 2 spare keys.

There are other cheaper switches available.

I put a wrap of sticky backed rubber around the switch body to stop water getting inside the console thru the very small gap around the switch.

Here is the original guys text

I just finished re-locating my ignition from that PITA frame neck switch. It’s easy. Needless to say this is on your own head: I’m not quite sure about photobucket so tell me if the links to the pics don’t work!

Take off the seat and the console. Disconnect the harness to the instruments to free the console. Note the rubber boot on the press switch needs unscrewing a little before you pry (carefully) on the boot.

Assuming you are using a pattern switch like mine you will need to hole saw around 2”/51mm diameter. If you mark this carefully you should take out all the little indentations in this area of the console. I used a pillar driller (and a pilot hole).

Make up a small sub-plate (I used 1/16” thick aluminium) and fix it using some of the screws holding the petrol tank top bulkhead plate on.

Use double sided tape on the base of the new switch. Pull the switch back into the new hole in the console and offer them up to the tank. Align the console over its fixing spire nuts and when you’re happy with the switch position drop it down and press it onto the tape to fix it down.

Take off the console carefully and mark the switch fixing hole points on the new sub-plate. Bolt together, I used brass BA screws. I also put an extra nut UNDER the front 2 fixing holes so the slope of the switch reflected the slope of the console.

Re-assemble and check concentricity with the hole and the slope. You can slot the holes for position and use washers to jack up the slope till you get it spot on. Once you have it right, fix the switch & plate down. Trim the edge of the hole in the console with plastic trim. Make sure the switch moves freely, mine is a bit tight. Loctite or superglue the nuts!

Access the existing ignition feed via the plastic cover plate at the back of the frame neck, inside the fame down tubes at the top. You can feel the 3 way connector on the back of the neck switch. Pop the clips each end and you can pull back the lead.

At the LHS of the frame neck, remove the rubber grommet. Use a wire hook to slip inside this hole, catch the ignition cable and pull it out. Replace the grommet and the plastic frame plate.

Route this ignition cable over the tank front along with the other cables into the console area. I left the connector on so I can de-convert if I want to. Connect in using spades and extend down to the new switch. Terminate on the switch with ring crimps. Mine is an HDI model. Red is the common feed, Red/black to the ignition and Red/Grey (only gray in U.S.!) to the accessories.

Fire it up. Put it back together. Ensure you don’t crimp the gas line which is bundled together with the electrics under the console edge.

I took the opportunity to (satin) black out the screws on assembly.

I can now ride with my keys in my pocket and my HDSS auto-arms as soon as I switch off and walk away.

Not the most complicated mod in the world but so satisfying. I don’t know why HD didn’t get it right in the first place!

This is for another type of switch if you get the switch above or the Harley switch keyed alike you won't need this wiring diagram below.

 

Give it a go, this is a great mod worth doing.

Good Luck