Great news mate,
Little by little she will take shape and the Zen of man and machine growing together is an awesome feeling ( in between the screams when you skin your knuckles again and again!). The hardest part is when she's back on the road and you have to take it easy and do the breaking in properly. Enjoy the journey, the destination is worth it.
Regards,
Cris.

Dave,
Just a thought, are you still running the stock oil filter set-up? (with a good drop in filter not a camel hair one of course).
If you are, consider adding an on-line one that takes something like a WIK 51348, (running that on the Heritage now, it's a straight spin on.) Now she's apart it's the best time to add stuff.
Regards,
Cris.

No compelling reason, I'm probably guilty of overkill. Used to run a second filter on the oil return line, had it behind the tranny. Also modified the supply to the rockers by fitting a T line in between the covers. Running the supply line there after plugging the hole in the rear cover. Used a s/s braided line running between the cylinders and behind the carby, then over to the T fitting. As you have already surmised I like to tinker a bit.

Hope you're back and blasting about the place in a very short time, Dave

Hey Dave, how is it coming along? When do you hope to be back on the road?

Take it easy.

Doug.

It'll be ready for Winton. No doubt.

Hi Dave,
Been off to sunny Qld (Sunny my ass, poured the first 3 days there!), took the fam for a holiday.
So, you're nearly back on the road.
OK, usual suspects, plugs, plug leads, check wiring, check coil, check timing plate and cam lobe for out of true. If all kosher, find TDC on front cylinder, set points to gap 18 to 22 thou. Prime and kick through. Should start (but you and I know that's on a perfect world.) Check fuel and lines just to make sure. Condenser going south is unusual, but is still a maybe. One pot running ok and the other not points to wiring, plug or lead to me. As you are running a stock points set up the coil would bugger up on both pots if it was at fault.
Just to play safe, check your pushrods, I was once left with only front cylinder running as the rear's intake pushrod was not locked up and it loosened to the point the intake valve wouldn't open.
I hope by the time you read this you will already have sorted it out and are out on the road, with a big grin on your face.
Cheers mate,
Cris.

Hi Dave,
Been off working and haven't had a chance to get on the site.
My initial comment was based on the front pot firing and the rear causing trouble. If you are having trouble starting at all, the coil comes under suspicion. When Seaeagle gives you a hand it should be apparent if that's the cause of grief. Are you running a kill switch? Check that wire out as fraying anywhere could be grounding it and shutting the coil down. Also have a look at your dash switch and check connections and grounding.
Best of luck,
Cris.

Hi Dave,
Good news, at least you've identified the problem with Chris' help.
Keep us posted.
regards,
Cris

FUCK!

Hi Dave,
Tip no 2 could work, the consideration there is damage to gasket surfaces if OOOOPS!!! happens. (Otherwise known as youfuckingbastardsonofafuckingbitch!!!!!). And also, you have to then work out removing what's left of the bolt from the head.
Seeing as it broke while being torqued in, it may be a bit of a job. If there's enough length on the bolt to remove using a plumber's wrench or vise grips I'd avoid cutting it.
Just my two bob's worth.
Cris.

Hi again Dave,
Forgot this, and Bano can edit this onto my last thread if he wants.
Looking at your pics just reminded me of a tip regarding exhaust pipe bolts. I had a couple of mates strip the threads out of the exhaust bolt hole. Steel will always win over aluminium when "just a bit tighter, Oh shit!!!" happens. Heli coiling fixed the prob, and buying a bolt that was long enough to add a nut and washer to the set-up would have probably prevented the problem from happening. What you do is, place exhaust pipe (with a normal Shovel gasket AND an Evo gasket on top.), in position. Run the nut all the way to the head of the bolt, add washer, screw bolt into the head (with a bit of anti-seize) and tighten snug. Then run the nut towards the head to tighten securely. The bolt acts like a stud changing the tightening force from pull and twist to pull only. This lessens the chance of stripping the threads in the cylinder head.
Regards,
Cris

What a turd of a problem, Dave. You only have a week n a half til Winton

Are those screw-extractor things any good for stripped and broken bolts/screws? I'd expect the bolt-shaft would need to be long enough in diameter.

Hi Dave,
Have you ever had a session with a psychic ?
It may be interesting to find out how many Chinamen you killed in a previous life.
My guess is a fair few.
Cris.

P.S: If it doesn't kill you, it will make you stronger.
And try telling this to someone with a Twinny, who gets his oil changed at the local dealership.
They just wouldn't understand.

Good on you Dave, Keep your Chin up mate. It well worth it

Dave can parlay his 'investment' in righting the Shovel to being a shovelhead specialising Mr FixIt, given their scarcity in his own adventures.

Hey dave

If ya need a hand i have full access to mill/lathe/grinder an so on
Any time
as iam into engineering an local frankston
Just send me a pm an if i can be of assistance i will
cheers
weaz

she goin yet? whats the update dave?

Whats going on Dave, You haven't given up, I hope,,,,,,,,,,, It must be going and he must be out Riding, no more time for his Geeky online mates any more

Great to hear Dave, it's good to step back and re-focus on life.
Cheers,
Cris